Supplies:
printer paper (there are many varieties to choose from: all-purpose, card stock for making homemade cards, photographic printer paper, to name just a few.)
mini miter box and saw (if you don't have access to one, you can use the exacto knife and a protractor for angles)
white glue
exacto or craft knife
straight edge or ruler
miniature-size wood strips or moldings
craft paint
paint brushes
fine sandpaper
wax paper
wood or cork working surface to square up frame
push pins
Step 1- Click on the painting image below for the printable page of miniature paintings. To print the page, either right click on the images and choose SAVE AS, or go to your web browser bar and choose SAVE AS from the file menu. Rename the file and save it to a specified location on your hardrive or desktop. Using a graphics or photo program, print the image out at 100%.
Click the above image to go to the printable paintings.
Step 2-
If you printed on all-purpose printer paper: Using rubber cement or other paper adhesive, glue the entire sheet to card stock or poster board, carefully smoothing out any wrinkles with a credit card.
If you printed out on photographic paper or card stock:
Go on to step 3.
Step 3- Using a straight edge and your exacto knife, cut along the outside edge of the image, leaving a white border (slightly smaller than the width of the wood framing strips) all the way around the painting. (See Diagram 1)
Step 4- Measure along the outer length and width of the painting and mark these measurements down. If you plan to include Option 2 described below, now would be the time to add the extra measurements of a matt to your overall inner frame dimensions (See Diagram 2). Remember the old saying "Measure twice. Cut Once!" It's true!
Step 5- Using a light pencil mark your measurements on the molding strips, using an angled tick mark to indicate to yourself which way the angle should flare out (See Diagram 3).
Step 6- Hold the wood strips firmly in the miter box and cut your 45 degree angles, testing them after each cut against each other for a clean fit (See Diagram 4). Sand very lightly if necessary. Do not sand too much though or the fit will be off and your frame won't square up in the end.
Step 7- Tape down a piece of wax paper over the wood or cork work surface. You can place a xerox of your painting printed at 100% taped to the board beneath the wax paper as a guide. Lay out your cut frame pieces and glue each of them together at their joints with a minimum of white glue. Wipe away any excess glue with a slightly dampened paper towel. Hold the pieces squared up and in place by securing them with the push pins pushed carefully into the work surface (See Diagram 5). Let dry completely before moving.
Step 8- Stain or paint the frame in a color that
matches your dollhouse color scheme. Let dry completely. Note: If you decide to stain the frame, do that before assembling the pieces with glue or the glue may prevent the stain from penetrating some areas. (See Project #1 above for how-to's for a simple verdigris or antique gold finish.)
Step 9- Carefully glue your finished frame to the front of the painting using a minimal amount of white glue, spreading it out for an even coat. The less you use, the less likely it will ooze out onto your painting. Remember, you can always add more! Cut a piece of plain card stock or other firm paper slightly smaller than your finished frame size and glue to the back of the entire piece for a finished look and added support.
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